Computer Graphics with Photoshop - Using multiple studio flashes

Author

Using multiple studio flashes

Burt Johnson

2007-10-25, 6:14 pm

pico

2007-10-25, 6:14 pm

Rita Ä Berkowitz <ritaberk2O04@aol.com> wrote:

> Here is what I got with my first attempt with multiple flash. While it is
> nowhere near good, it is a good starting point that demonstrates to me
> what
> can be done with multiple flash and a little patience.
>
> <http://www.geocities.com/ritaberk2006/stoned.htm>

Just a couple things. Black flocked paper might be better (if you really
want black) because it won't have lint on it, and when it does get lint,
just throw it away and roll out another sheet. Velvet is better because you
can sculpt it to make the little sheen work for you in the OOF area. Clean
velvet with a dog-hair roller.

It appears you went for all the DOF you could get and diffraction sent
sharpness to hell.

Lights? Man, put a light to the left. It looks like an industrial shot. Too
dark, and off-color (naughty guy). I don't see any 'quality' in the diamonds
which should have some colors in it. Pinlights will help that.

And the goo holding the ring up... well, PS it outta there.

Even if this is for eBay it's not good enough.

Burt Johnson

2007-10-25, 10:14 pm

Pat <groups@artisticphotography.us> wrote:

>
> Go get a book on photographing glass. It's the same basic thing.
> Also, Rangefinder had a story on it, seems like a year or so ago
> (glasses, not diamonds).

Actually my question was more general than just diamonds. I have trying
to photograph flowers in my (newly created) studio, and been unhappy
with the results. Very flat. I don't seem to have enough control.

I keep thinking maybe I need to go with LED gooseneck lights, but the
$1200 price keeps me looking for other alternatives.

>
> Here is what I would suggest, to start.
>
> Put the diamond in the setting and set the camera up. black
> background behind it. Put a piece of black card stock (a big piece)
> between the camera and the diamond. cut a whole in it to shoot
> through, but not any large than necessary. This is sort of the
> ultimate "reflection control" device" to cut out all lens flare.

Cool tip -- thx!

>
> Then go look through the lens as someone shines a flashlight on the
> diamond until it glitters. Put in flash 1. Go to the other side and
> do the same thing.

Though I am not looking at glitters myself, I can see where the
flashlght idea might be useful in getting a better handle on the flash
results.

--
- Burt Johnson
MindStorm, Inc.
http://www.mindstorm-inc.com/software.html

Tom Nelson

2007-10-26, 6:14 pm

In article <1193364684.630723.101600@k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com>, Pat
<groups@artisticphotography.us> wrote:

> Too flat can mean a couple of things. I would start with the light
> being too flat -- too soft. You need shadows for contrast to add
> depth to images. It could also be too much light reflecting into your
> lens and glaring. That's were I would start.

A few other considerations:

1. If your studio is small and has white walls, you might be getting
too much fill light from the walls. If this is the case, you could
paint the walls gray or black.

2. The closer the lights, the faster the intensity falls off with
distance. You can use this to add drama.

3. On the other hand, the closer the lights, the broader they seem to
be from the subject's point of view. Broader light is not necessarily
boring, but it can be. Restricting the size of the light with a snoot
or gobo might be advisable.

Tom Nelson
Tom Nelson Photography

pico

2007-10-26, 6:14 pm

"Tom Nelson" <ludibund@xintegraonline.com.invalid> wrote in message
news:261020071253284344%ludibund@xintegraonline.com.invalid...

> 1. If your studio is small and has white walls, you might be getting
> too much fill light from the walls. If this is the case, you could
> paint the walls gray or black.

Are we still addressing Rita's problem picture? There ain't no fill at all!

Burt Johnson

2007-10-26, 10:14 pm

Tom Nelson <ludibund@xintegraonline.com.invalid> wrote:

> A few other considerations:
>
> 1. If your studio is small and has white walls, you might be getting
> too much fill light from the walls. If this is the case, you could
> paint the walls gray or black.

Yeah, the room is a lot smaller than I would prefer. It is our guest
room when not occupied by guests, which is all but a couple days per
year. The walls are off-white. Not sure my wife would like it if I
tried to paint it black though... :-)

>
> 2. The closer the lights, the faster the intensity falls off with
> distance. You can use this to add drama.
>
> 3. On the other hand, the closer the lights, the broader they seem to
> be from the subject's point of view. Broader light is not necessarily
> boring, but it can be. Restricting the size of the light with a snoot
> or gobo might be advisable.

Good points. I'll have to do some more playing with lights. I had been
thinking of baffles, but a snoot would probably give me more the effect
I have been trying for.

The strobes I was using were more intended for portraits. I hadn't
really thought of it before, but this conversation makes me realize that
means they were intended for soft, broad effect.

I think I am now seeing where I went wrong, and some ways to experiment
with changes. Thanks for all the ideas!

--
- Burt Johnson
MindStorm, Inc.
http://www.mindstorm-inc.com/software.html

Rob

2007-10-27, 3:14 am

Pat wrote:

> On Oct 25, 11:03 pm, b...@mindstorm-inc.com (Burt Johnson) wrote:
>
>
>
> I would also think, that if you took a really small, bright light
> (maybe a LED pointer or a fluted light with a colored gel (blue?)) and
> hit the right angle into the stone, you could throw some color into it
> which might help.
>

use fiber optic and adjust that - its cheap and ideal for what you want.

Rob

2007-10-27, 6:14 pm

Burt Johnson wrote:
> Rob <mesa@mine.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> OK. I went online to find some source of cheap units. The first I find
> in Google is
>
> http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Lightunits.htm
>
> To tell you the truth, I couldn't look at myself in the mirror in the
> morning if I bought from anyone with THAT BAD of a web site design!
>
> I have found a couple of other sites that sell this stuff cheaper than I
> expected. Is there any particular source, or even product, that you
> recommend?
>

No don't go buying the stuff from a photographic supplier.

I would not look at them either.

The stuff I was given is used for a strip light, its about 8mm diameter
with a black outer sleeve. is only lit from one end, and the light will
come out the other as a torch light. Ill have to ask during the week
what its called.

But an example

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...ic_Adapter.html

This is the sort of stuff I am referring although this is only about 4mm
diameter. Thats only $6.50. As you can see it fits over a torch with a
cap. The larger stuff I use is cheap and effective.

I have made a bigger version of this plus a 3 and 4 fibre optic coming
out of the cap. the optics are about 20" long and placed where there
required all powered from a single light source. Something like a
spider, in looks.

What I did was make a cap to go over my light source and drill a hole
into it. Then place the fibre optic into that. What happens the enclosed
light is directed when you want it to go with out any spill.

George Kerby

2007-10-27, 6:14 pm

On 10/25/07 4:02 PM, in article 13i2135tjh8pc4b@news.supernews.com, "pico"
<pico.digoliardi.net> wrote:

> Rita Ä Berkowitz <ritaberk2O04@aol.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Just a couple things. Black flocked paper might be better (if you really
> want black) because it won't have lint on it, and when it does get lint,
> just throw it away and roll out another sheet. Velvet is better because you
> can sculpt it to make the little sheen work for you in the OOF area. Clean
> velvet with a dog-hair roller.
>
> It appears you went for all the DOF you could get and diffraction sent
> sharpness to hell.
>
> Lights? Man, put a light to the left. It looks like an industrial shot. Too
> dark, and off-color (naughty guy). I don't see any 'quality' in the diamonds
> which should have some colors in it. Pinlights will help that.
>
> And the goo holding the ring up... well, PS it outta there.
>
> Even if this is for eBay it's not good enough.
>
>
>
Agreed. Pretty sad...

Rita Ä Berkowitz

2007-10-27, 6:14 pm

Rob wrote:

> What I did was make a cap to go over my light source and drill a hole
> into it. Then place the fibre optic into that. What happens the
> enclosed light is directed when you want it to go with out any spill.

Here ya go, try this. This stuff works great for macro flash. Just build a
cap to go over your Speedlight and you got a winner.

<http://cgi.ebay.com/_W0QQitemZ150021561521>

Rita

Burt Johnson

2007-10-27, 6:14 pm

Rob <mesa@mine.com> wrote:

> No don't go buying the stuff from a photographic supplier.

I looked for photo suppliers of this stuff last month, which is when I
decided it just wouldn't work (read: too expensive). Last night I did
some searching, based on suggestions here, and just looked at commercial
and home lighting. I did find several that look pretty possible.

>
> I would not look at them either.
>
> The stuff I was given is used for a strip light, its about 8mm diameter
> with a black outer sleeve. is only lit from one end, and the light will
> come out the other as a torch light. Ill have to ask during the week
> what its called.
>
> But an example
>
>
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ..._FPO07AA7_Fiber
_Optic_Adapter.html
>

Yeah, I saw some items like that in my search last night. I was
starting to wonder if that was what you were talking about.

> This is the sort of stuff I am referring although this is only about 4mm
> diameter. Thats only $6.50. As you can see it fits over a torch with a
> cap. The larger stuff I use is cheap and effective.
>
> I have made a bigger version of this plus a 3 and 4 fibre optic coming
> out of the cap. the optics are about 20" long and placed where there
> required all powered from a single light source. Something like a
> spider, in looks.
>
> What I did was make a cap to go over my light source and drill a hole
> into it. Then place the fibre optic into that. What happens the enclosed
> light is directed when you want it to go with out any spill.

I did a "city search" and came up with several lighting stores in the
area. I am going shopping today, and see what they have that can be
adapted. I think I'd like to physically see them and pick a small
selection to experiment with. If I come up blank in the stores, I'll do
the net shopping gig tonight.

Thanks for pointing me in this new direction!

--
- Burt Johnson
MindStorm, Inc.
http://www.mindstorm-inc.com/software.html

Burt Johnson

2007-10-27, 6:14 pm

Burt Johnson <burt@mindstorm-inc.com> wrote:

> I did a "city search" and came up with several lighting stores in the
> area. I am going shopping today, and see what they have that can be
> adapted. I think I'd like to physically see them and pick a small
> selection to experiment with. If I come up blank in the stores, I'll do
> the net shopping gig tonight.

I went to a few stores today. Didn't find any that had fiber optic, but
one had a nice selection of small halogen lamps. I bought two to
experiment with, along with 10, 30 and 45 degree lamps for each.

I'm going to see what kind of results I get here. I think maybe this,
plus one or two fiber optic lights for macro shots may get me in the
direction I was hoping for.

I hadn't thought of looking on ebay for the fiber optic lighting. I've
actually never bought anything from eBay before, though I do buy online
quite often. Looks like some alternatives there cheap enough to
experiment with, and not feel bad if they don't work out.

--
- Burt Johnson
MindStorm, Inc.
http://www.mindstorm-inc.com/software.html