Computer Graphics with Photoshop

Author

Lighten faces only

Fruit2O

2007-01-10, 6:20 pm

I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is
there a method?.

Hunt

2007-01-10, 6:20 pm

In article <ldd0q21ujnac9fumi9upfoi78c1n71oa0t@4ax.com>, jz137xww@cox.net
says...
>
>I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is
>there a method?.

Probably the best method would be to Select the face(s) by whatever means you
choose, Lasso, Pen Tool (to Selection), etc., then Invert Selection, click
Adjustment Layer (with the Selection Active to create a Layer Mask), and
choose, say Levels, or Curves. Adjust the density to suit your tastes, and
then make the Layer Mask active and paint with a very soft-edged brush, until
the transition is suitable to your tastes. You can also use the Blur Tool on
the Layer Mask edge to soften this.

Hunt

Mike Russell

2007-01-10, 6:20 pm

"Fruit2O" <jz137xww@cox.net> wrote in message
news:ldd0q21ujnac9fumi9upfoi78c1n71oa0t@4ax.com...
>I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is
> there a method?.

The standard way is a mask with an adjustment layer, and you should probably
start by doing it that way.

As an advanced technique, if the faces are brighter, or a different color
than most of the rest of the image it may be faster and easier to dup the
image to a new layer, adjust the faces ignoring the rest of the image, use
the layer's Blend If sliders set appropriately to change only the faces, and
use a layer mask to clean up any parts that are not caught by the Blend If
sliders.
--
Mike Russell
www.curvemeister.com/forum/

Fruit2O

2007-01-10, 6:20 pm

On Sat, 6 Jan 2007 16:52:18 -0800, "Mike Russell"
<RE-MOVEmike@Curvemeister.comRE-MOVE> wrote:

>"Fruit2O" <jz137xww@cox.net> wrote in message
>news:ldd0q21ujnac9fumi9upfoi78c1n71oa0t@4ax.com...
>
>The standard way is a mask with an adjustment layer, and you should probably
>start by doing it that way.
>
>As an advanced technique, if the faces are brighter, or a different color
>than most of the rest of the image it may be faster and easier to dup the
>image to a new layer, adjust the faces ignoring the rest of the image, use
>the layer's Blend If sliders set appropriately to change only the faces, and
>use a layer mask to clean up any parts that are not caught by the Blend If
>sliders.

Mike, does that man I'd have to mask each individual face (I know it's
a stupid question - but I have to ask anyway)?

Fruit2O

2007-01-10, 6:20 pm

On Sat, 6 Jan 2007 16:52:18 -0800, "Mike Russell"
<RE-MOVEmike@Curvemeister.comRE-MOVE> wrote:

>"Fruit2O" <jz137xww@cox.net> wrote in message
>news:ldd0q21ujnac9fumi9upfoi78c1n71oa0t@4ax.com...
>
>The standard way is a mask with an adjustment layer, and you should probably
>start by doing it that way.

Mike, could you be a lot more specific? I know how to paint using the
quick mask - but that's all.
>
>As an advanced technique, if the faces are brighter, or a different color
>than most of the rest of the image it may be faster and easier to dup the
>image to a new layer, adjust the faces ignoring the rest of the image, use
>the layer's Blend If sliders set appropriately to change only the faces, and
>use a layer mask to clean up any parts that are not caught by the Blend If
>sliders.

Same here. If you could be more specific, I'll learn something new.
Thanks......

Mike Russell

2007-01-10, 6:20 pm

"Fruit2O" <jz137xww@cox.net> wrote in message
news:kao0q2h5l9kmso8m5h996tkof6s4t7315u@4ax.com...

Mike said:
>
> Mike, could you be a lot more specific? I know how to paint using the
> quick mask - but that's all.

Actually, Hunt did a good job on this, and I couldn't say it much better.

>
> Same here. If you could be more specific, I'll learn something new.
> Thanks......

If the faces are lighter than the rest of the image, or otherwise
distinguished in the amount of red, green, or blue in them, then you can use
this method.

Duplicate the image to a new layer, and use curves (or your favorite method)
to make the faces lighter. Then double click on the layer in the layers
palette, and fiddle with the Blend If sliders so that only the faces are
changed. If there are any non-face areas you care about whose color is
lightened, use a layer mask and paint those areas black to get rid of them.

For additional "blend if" leverage, convert the image to Lab mode. In Lab
you can select more effectively based on the color of the object, apart from
its lightness. Dpreveiw has a discussion with an example image:
<http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/r...43&changemode=1>

The ultimate source for this technique is in Dan Margulis's Lab book.
--
Mike Russell
www.curvemeister.com/forum/

Fruit2O

2007-01-10, 6:20 pm

On Sat, 6 Jan 2007 19:39:05 -0800, "Mike Russell"
<RE-MOVEmike@Curvemeister.comRE-MOVE> wrote:

>"Fruit2O" <jz137xww@cox.net> wrote in message
>news:kao0q2h5l9kmso8m5h996tkof6s4t7315u@4ax.com...
>
>Mike said:
>
>Actually, Hunt did a good job on this, and I couldn't say it much better.

Hunt?

>
>
>If the faces are lighter than the rest of the image, or otherwise
>distinguished in the amount of red, green, or blue in them, then you can use
>this method.
>
>Duplicate the image to a new layer, and use curves (or your favorite method)
>to make the faces lighter. Then double click on the layer in the layers
>palette, and fiddle with the Blend If sliders so that only the faces are
>changed. If there are any non-face areas you care about whose color is
>lightened, use a layer mask and paint those areas black to get rid of them.
>
>For additional "blend if" leverage, convert the image to Lab mode. In Lab
>you can select more effectively based on the color of the object, apart from
>its lightness. Dpreveiw has a discussion with an example image:
><http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/r...43&changemode=1>
>
>The ultimate source for this technique is in Dan Margulis's Lab book.

Fruit2O

2007-01-10, 6:20 pm

On Sat, 6 Jan 2007 19:39:05 -0800, "Mike Russell"
<RE-MOVEmike@Curvemeister.comRE-MOVE> wrote:

>"Fruit2O" <jz137xww@cox.net> wrote in message
>news:kao0q2h5l9kmso8m5h996tkof6s4t7315u@4ax.com...
>
>Mike said:
>
>Actually, Hunt did a good job on this, and I couldn't say it much better.

OK, I Googled and found Gordon Hunt. How do I find the procedure for
the faces? Thanks.
>
>
>If the faces are lighter than the rest of the image, or otherwise
>distinguished in the amount of red, green, or blue in them, then you can use
>this method.
>
>Duplicate the image to a new layer, and use curves (or your favorite method)
>to make the faces lighter. Then double click on the layer in the layers
>palette, and fiddle with the Blend If sliders so that only the faces are
>changed. If there are any non-face areas you care about whose color is
>lightened, use a layer mask and paint those areas black to get rid of them.
>
>For additional "blend if" leverage, convert the image to Lab mode. In Lab
>you can select more effectively based on the color of the object, apart from
>its lightness. Dpreveiw has a discussion with an example image:
><http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/r...43&changemode=1>
>
>The ultimate source for this technique is in Dan Margulis's Lab book.

Dave

2007-01-10, 6:20 pm

On Sun, 07 Jan 2007 10:44:33 -0500, Fruit2O <jz137xww@cox.net> wrote:

>"Mike Russell"
>

>then Fruit ask this stupid question
>Hunt?
>OK, I Googled and found Gordon Hunt. How do I find the procedure for
>the faces? Thanks.

I f you do not even look at the names of the people doing effort to
answer you, go buy a book and don't waste people like Mike and
Hunt's time

Dave

KatWoman

2007-01-10, 6:20 pm

"Fruit2O" <jz137xww@cox.net> wrote in message
news:ldd0q21ujnac9fumi9upfoi78c1n71oa0t@4ax.com...
>I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is
> there a method?.

OK for quick and dirty I would do this

select DODGE tool
3-7% strength should do
midtones setting
large brush approx size of face -brush should have VERY soft edge
click one or two times on each face

you may need burn on shadows to put back some dulled out eyes or lips

KatWoman

2007-01-10, 6:20 pm

"KatWoman" <XXXJoliePrincessKatanaXXX@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:gAboh.23036$AY1.3075@bignews5.bellsouth.net...
>
> "Fruit2O" <jz137xww@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:ldd0q21ujnac9fumi9upfoi78c1n71oa0t@4ax.com...
>
> OK for quick and dirty I would do this
>
> select DODGE tool
> 3-7% strength should do
> midtones setting
> large brush approx size of face -brush should have VERY soft edge
> click one or two times on each face
>
> you may need burn on shadows to put back some dulled out eyes or lips
>
should not need to say but:
use "SAVE as"
or do this on a duplicate layer

Papa Joe

2007-01-27, 10:17 pm

On 2007-01-10 16:53:00 -0400, "KatWoman"
<XXXJoliePrincessKatanaXXX@hotmail.com> said:

>
> "Bill Hilton" <bhilton665@aol.com> wrote in message
> news:1168448271.462303.327410@i56g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
> what you call "crudeness" of burn/dodge tools tells me you never
> worked in the limitations of a real wet darkroom
> where you had little sticks and paper wands and had to use them quickly
> before the print time was done
>
> it also tells me you do not know how to use those tools properly and
> subtlety in PS
> they have very sensitive settings if you bother to change from 50% defaults
> added to the fact you can affect only midtones highlights or shadows
> makes this tool even more versatile
> and with no time limit and perfect control of areas you want to affect
> it is way superior to actual darkroom working of the dinosaur times
>
> well keep trying the hard way
> you will learn stuff even if it takes awhile
> levels is easier than curves
> but you will lose those oh so valuable pixels it you move the end ones anyway

One thing that's very different with photoshop from the dark room is
digital information.
The more you have the better for output devices but espescially for
editing in shop. There are two tools that are shunned by the
professional photoshop experts, the eraser and the dodge and burn. It's
not because they don't work well but it's what they actually do... they
erase information. It's never comes back. You burn out some pixels
around the eyes... it's gone. It can't be brought back, it can't be
adjusted, It's just gone!

Novice and even intermediate users are pixel killers, they dont
understand why it's bad to kill pixels,
it's easier to use the dodge and burn, and it takes a lot of figuring
out why you shouldn't. But when you finally do figure it out and start
using photoshop in a non-destructive manner, then you'll be on your way
to really being a pro at photoshop and it's core essence.

We're alaways learning photoshop and we need to help each other out
with knowlegde,
I'll given you some advice about these "destructive tools", now it's up
to you to bother to find out why.

GL

Welcome to Papa Joe's

KatWoman

2007-01-27, 10:17 pm

"Bill Hilton" <bhilton665@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1168466889.885582.310970@k58g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
>
> Well, I had a black-white darkroom for years and studied printing with
> Bruce Barnbaum, so dunno what to make of that little voice in your head
> which "tells" you such things :) It's lying to you ...
>
>
> For most operations there are simple ways to do it, like Burn/Dodge (or
> your beloved Levels), and more subtle ones (like the 'soft light' blend
> filled with neutral gray) that work better and give you more control if
> you take a few moments to learn them. I picked this trick up from the
> book "Photoshop Artistry" by Barry Haynes and it's clearly better than
> using B/D, and intuitively simple once you try it.
>
>
> I'm still learning but I guess I've already learned a little since I'm
> an "Adobe Certified Expert" in Photoshop. You on the other hand seem
> like a clueless beginner with a very bad attitude and an inferiority
> complex.
>
> Bill

not a beginner, and never claimed expert however I do make a living from
retouching pictures
and unlike yourself do not need to brag my credentials, this is FREE advice,
not a moderated or pro discussion group

I understood the OP's first responder HUNT who told him the PROPER technique
the rest of you just repeated similar ideas
which he did not GET how to do, he did not understand levels, masks or
curves or blend modes,
so after suffering his confusion in several posts I suggested
my technique PROMINENTLY LABELED:::: QUICK AND DIRTY (only people who
actually have sex know what that means so I see why you are confused)
AND unlike the OP, I DO know the tools and techniques to do it RIGHT

bad attitude yes I do not suffer humorless arrogant fools well.......who
attack me for giving my time for free to help a person fix a picture.
LICK IT Mr. Perfect

Dave

2007-01-27, 10:17 pm

On Thu, 11 Jan 2007 13:43:18 -0500, "KatWoman"
<XXXJoliePrincessKatanaXXX@hotmail.com> wrote:

>
>"Bill Hilton"
[color=darkred]
[color=darkred]
>the rest of you just repeated similar ideas
>which he did not GET how to do, he did not understand levels, masks or
>curves or blend modes,
>so after suffering his confusion in several posts I suggested
>my technique PROMINENTLY LABELED:::: QUICK AND DIRTY (only people who
>actually have sex know what that means so I see why you are confused)

>LICK IT Mr. Perfect
>

KatWoman! You'll scratch your keyboard with that nails...!

More serious
All what's said make no dif to the fact that you are one of the
most valuable contributors on this ng. And that a lot of us
(including this South African) learned a lot from you.
Keep on contributing and DO NOT FORGET your blood pressure pills!
:-)))
Dave

granny

2007-01-27, 10:17 pm

Dang, Y'all make nervous to offer a simplistic and what I feel is the
easiest way to lighten faces.. (I use PS 7)

Use the "History Brush Tool" with a soft brush size just smaller than
the face with
a Mode setting at the top set to "Screen" and Opacity and flow set to
Around "40%" and the air brush turned off to prevent over-spray... hold
the button on your mouse down till you are finished with one face to
prevent splotchyness... if it is to light then undo and lower the
opacity and/or the flow numbers.. My personal preferences is to make
small improvements or changes at a time and gradually work till I think
it is right... if it is still not light enough then re-apply... The PROS
will want this added also, this should be done on a copied layer and
"saved as" when finished, with an amended file name..
This same method can be applied to darken a portion of the image also..
except use "Multiply" instead of "Screen"
I am a Newbie and an Amateur.. and use the dodge and burn tools also..
but for this application, without knowing the tools well, a person will
probably get very washed out results or at the least a muddy/bland
result because on each face there are usually highlights, midtones and
shadows.. each of which may need to be manipulated...

Please no flames,... LUV YOU "Kat", "Mike", "Bill", "Dave", "Joe"..

I just hope the OP learns as much as I have from all of you..
--
"Granny"
Old N Slow N Prefer Quick N Easy

Dave

2007-01-27, 10:17 pm

On Thu, 11 Jan 2007 18:34:09 -0600, "granny" <DontSpamMe@NoSpam.com>
wrote:

>Dang, Y'all make nervous to offer a simplistic and what I feel is the
>easiest way to lighten faces.. (I use PS 7)
>
>Use the "History Brush Tool" with a soft brush size just smaller than
>the face with
>a Mode setting at the top set to "Screen" and Opacity and flow set to
>Around "40%" and the air brush turned off to prevent over-spray... hold
>the button on your mouse down till you are finished with one face to
>prevent splotchyness... if it is to light then undo and lower the
>opacity and/or the flow numbers.. My personal preferences is to make
>small improvements or changes at a time and gradually work till I think
>it is right... if it is still not light enough then re-apply... The PROS
>will want this added also, this should be done on a copied layer and
>"saved as" when finished, with an amended file name..
>This same method can be applied to darken a portion of the image also..
>except use "Multiply" instead of "Screen"
>I am a Newbie and an Amateur.. and use the dodge and burn tools also..
>but for this application, without knowing the tools well, a person will
>probably get very washed out results or at the least a muddy/bland
>result because on each face there are usually highlights, midtones and
>shadows.. each of which may need to be manipulated...
>
>Please no flames,... LUV YOU "Kat", "Mike", "Bill", "Dave", "Joe"..
>
>I just hope the OP learns as much as I have from all of you..

LOL, hi Granny:-) Somehow I've got the feeling that this
'Newbie and an Amateur' may be the same Granny I
know from forums like Corel Painter's:-)
Someone from who I learned quite a few things

If not, your answer here prove you not to be
a amateur at all:-)

Dave

Fruit2O

2007-01-27, 10:17 pm

On 10 Jan 2007 14:08:10 -0800, "Bill Hilton" <bhilton665@aol.com>
wrote:

>
>Well, I had a black-white darkroom for years and studied printing with
>Bruce Barnbaum, so dunno what to make of that little voice in your head
>which "tells" you such things :) It's lying to you ...
>
>
>For most operations there are simple ways to do it, like Burn/Dodge (or
>your beloved Levels), and more subtle ones (like the 'soft light' blend
>filled with neutral gray) that work better and give you more control if
>you take a few moments to learn them. I picked this trick up from the
>book "Photoshop Artistry" by Barry Haynes and it's clearly better than
>using B/D, and intuitively simple once you try it.
>
>
>I'm still learning but I guess I've already learned a little since I'm
>an "Adobe Certified Expert" in Photoshop. You on the other hand seem
>like a clueless beginner with a very bad attitude and an inferiority
>complex.
>
>Bill

I am still ill - so haven't had the time to catch up on your responses
- but thank you ALL. I realize that it's easy to get caught up in
bickering about whose method is better, but it really doesn't matter.
There are many ways to do a lot of things with PS and all suggestions
are welcome. I sure hate to see the bickering take up space in the
posts. I, too, used to have a B&W darkroom - but I find that PS
provides the user with NEW techniques as technology changes.

Fruit2O

2007-01-27, 10:17 pm

On Wed, 10 Jan 2007 21:57:58 -0400, Papa Joe <brown.joey@mac.com>
wrote:

>On 2007-01-10 16:53:00 -0400, "KatWoman"
><XXXJoliePrincessKatanaXXX@hotmail.com> said:
>
>
>One thing that's very different with photoshop from the dark room is
>digital information.
>The more you have the better for output devices but espescially for
>editing in shop. There are two tools that are shunned by the
>professional photoshop experts, the eraser and the dodge and burn. It's
>not because they don't work well but it's what they actually do... they
>erase information. It's never comes back. You burn out some pixels
>around the eyes... it's gone. It can't be brought back, it can't be
>adjusted, It's just gone!
>
>Novice and even intermediate users are pixel killers, they dont
>understand why it's bad to kill pixels,
>it's easier to use the dodge and burn, and it takes a lot of figuring
>out why you shouldn't. But when you finally do figure it out and start
>using photoshop in a non-destructive manner, then you'll be on your way
>to really being a pro at photoshop and it's core essence.
>
>We're alaways learning photoshop and we need to help each other out
>with knowlegde,
>I'll given you some advice about these "destructive tools", now it's up
>to you to bother to find out why.
>
>GL
>
>

>
>Welcome to Papa Joe's

Right on!!!