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| Author |
OLD damaged BW negs
|
|
| KatWoman 2005-10-19, 6:15 pm |
| My dad turned 80 and his friend gave him some great condition 35mm BW negs
(1956 & 1959). Except for major dust.
I did not want to manually clean with chemicals, didn't want to risk any
damage.
I have a Canonscan FS 4000.
All my previous experience with it is from color slides, I got it with
digital Ice, it's a prog that auto removes dust and scratches at the scan
phase.(big improvement over my old Minolta)
It does not work on BW negs! It says the operation failed and after further
research I find it isn't designed to work on BW negs.
So now I have a bunch of really dusted up and sometimes scratched scans. I
manually spotted one image and it took like 2 hours for just dust.
I tried Gaussian/ dust scratches and overlay, hue, color, none of that
looked right.
anyone have a good faster way I can fix them?
the scanning is super slow already and I need to do 4 rolls of 24
| |
| Lorem Ipsum 2005-10-19, 10:14 pm |
| "KatWoman" <JolieXPrincessXKatanaXXX@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:29z5f.37408$Lp.34935@bignews5.bellsouth.net...
>
> anyone have a good faster way I can fix them?
No magic for good outcomes. Welcome to the world of old film.
| |
| Caitlin 2005-10-19, 10:14 pm |
|
"KatWoman" <JolieXPrincessXKatanaXXX@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:29z5f.37408$Lp.34935@bignews5.bellsouth.net...
> My dad turned 80 and his friend gave him some great condition 35mm BW negs
> (1956 & 1959). Except for major dust.
> I did not want to manually clean with chemicals, didn't want to risk any
> damage.
> I have a Canonscan FS 4000.
> All my previous experience with it is from color slides, I got it with
> digital Ice, it's a prog that auto removes dust and scratches at the scan
> phase.(big improvement over my old Minolta)
> It does not work on BW negs! It says the operation failed and after
> further research I find it isn't designed to work on BW negs.
> So now I have a bunch of really dusted up and sometimes scratched scans. I
> manually spotted one image and it took like 2 hours for just dust.
> I tried Gaussian/ dust scratches and overlay, hue, color, none of that
> looked right.
>
> anyone have a good faster way I can fix them?
>
> the scanning is super slow already and I need to do 4 rolls of 24
>
>
Clean the negs. PEC-12 is designed for this, and is quite affordable. If you
are concerned, just test one out in a corner first. It's crazy not to remove
the dirt first before scanning. http://www.photosol.com/pec-12product.htm
BTW - I have the supplier details for Australia for anyone searching for it
down this way.
| |
| Lorem Ipsum 2005-10-19, 10:14 pm |
| > Clean the negs. PEC-12 is designed for this, and is quite affordable.
Gosh, if it's negs, use Pledge(tm) "grab it dry" cloths. No kidding. They
are lint-free and truly suck up the dust. If they had been invented during
the era of the darkroom, they would be a huge hit - and real spendy. But
they are cheap now. The "dry" ones, not the ones with polish.
I use 'em on negs in the darkroom. Outstanding.
| |
|
| In article <29z5f.37408$Lp.34935@bignews5.bellsouth.net>,
JolieXPrincessXKatanaXXX@hotmail.com says...
>
>My dad turned 80 and his friend gave him some great condition 35mm BW negs
>(1956 & 1959). Except for major dust.
>I did not want to manually clean with chemicals, didn't want to risk any
>damage.
>I have a Canonscan FS 4000.
>All my previous experience with it is from color slides, I got it with
>digital Ice, it's a prog that auto removes dust and scratches at the scan
>phase.(big improvement over my old Minolta)
>It does not work on BW negs! It says the operation failed and after further
>research I find it isn't designed to work on BW negs.
>So now I have a bunch of really dusted up and sometimes scratched scans. I
>manually spotted one image and it took like 2 hours for just dust.
>I tried Gaussian/ dust scratches and overlay, hue, color, none of that
>looked right.
>
>anyone have a good faster way I can fix them?
>
>the scanning is super slow already and I need to do 4 rolls of 24
Many years ago, I had ~ 100,000 B/W negs and 35mm slides "lost" in a flood.
Called in interns from Tulane U. who were studying film/photography. We set up
a cleaning line, with ionized water wash, re-fix, and several more regular
wash baths, the last with Photoflo. I was amazed at how well this project
turned out. My negs and slides had tons of slime and muck on them, and I ended
up with about 90% success rate. The handling was extremely careful, but some
of the guck couldn't be removed without taking emulsion with it. I imagine
that shooters, back in New Orleans are doing much the same, right now.
What I would do is get the ultimate scan that is possible now, as others have
said, experiment on one part of a neg, and plan on washing, re-fixing, re-
washing, and drying. I hope that these are still in strips, and not
individual.
Caitlin recommended a cleaning agent/process, that I have not knowledge of,
but it sounds well worth a try.
Good luck,
Hunt
| |
|
| In article <11ldtma53i4ie90@news.supernews.com>, nospam@nospam.com says...
>
>
>Gosh, if it's negs, use Pledge(tm) "grab it dry" cloths. No kidding. They
>are lint-free and truly suck up the dust. If they had been invented during
>the era of the darkroom, they would be a huge hit - and real spendy. But
>they are cheap now. The "dry" ones, not the ones with polish.
>
>I use 'em on negs in the darkroom. Outstanding.
Pledge cloths, hm-m-m. I used several treated cloth products (seems at least
one came from Ilford), and the biggest drawback was how quickly they became
matted with the detritis on the negs. Back then, these guys were not cheap, so
it was a real drag, and I was always making one pass, then making sure that
THAT surface never touched a neg again. If these "grab it dry" are inexpensive
and soft enough, sounds like a great idea.
Hunt
| |
| Caitlin 2005-10-20, 3:14 am |
|
"Hunt" <noone@hunt.com> wrote in message
news:dj6vp422rde@news4.newsguy.com...
> In article <11ldtma53i4ie90@news.supernews.com>, nospam@nospam.com says...
>
> Pledge cloths, hm-m-m. I used several treated cloth products (seems at
> least
> one came from Ilford), and the biggest drawback was how quickly they
> became
> matted with the detritis on the negs. Back then, these guys were not
> cheap, so
> it was a real drag, and I was always making one pass, then making sure
> that
> THAT surface never touched a neg again. If these "grab it dry" are
> inexpensive
> and soft enough, sounds like a great idea.
>
> Hunt
>
Honestly I don't work for them - but PEC pads are disposable and lint free
http://www.photosol.com/pecpadproduct.htm I bought a pack of 100, and still
have about 90 left, buy using them for a few photos each.
| |
|
| In article <4357144d$0$1368$c30e37c6@ken-reader.news.telstra.net>,
caitlin_online_nospam@hotmail.com says...
>
>
>"Hunt" <noone@hunt.com> wrote in message
>news:dj6vp422rde@news4.newsguy.com...
>
>Honestly I don't work for them - but PEC pads are disposable and lint free
>http://www.photosol.com/pecpadproduct.htm I bought a pack of 100, and still
>have about 90 left, buy using them for a few photos each.
Glad to hear of them. I still have the un-save flooded negs in a box, and will
try these, as they might bring my save rate up to 95% - thanks for the rec.
Hunt
| |
| Lorem Ipsum 2005-10-20, 6:14 pm |
| "Caitlin" <caitlin_online_nospam@hotmail.com> wrote
> Honestly I don't work for them - but PEC pads are disposable and lint free
> http://www.photosol.com/pecpadproduct.htm I bought a pack of 100, and
> still have about 90 left, buy using them for a few photos each.
Thanks for the second nudge. I didn't realize they were disposable. Will get
some ASAP.
| |
| Caitlin 2005-10-20, 6:14 pm |
|
"Lorem Ipsum" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:11lf8nc3b6uikb1@news.supernews.com...
> "Caitlin" <caitlin_online_nospam@hotmail.com> wrote
>
>
> Thanks for the second nudge. I didn't realize they were disposable. Will
> get some ASAP.
>
>
Just to clarify - the PEC-12 solution, and PEC pads are different products -
just marketed by the same company. The PEC pads don't have any cleaner
solution on them, but can be used as is as lint free wipes, or combined with
the cleaning solution. Also - I have found one batch of slides that were not
solvent proof! (And made the mistake of not testing first) These slides were
so damaged just rubbing them probably would have taken the emulsion off
though.....
| |
|
| In article <29z5f.37408$Lp.34935@bignews5.bellsouth.net>,
"KatWoman" <JolieXPrincessXKatanaXXX@hotmail.com> wrote:
> My dad turned 80 and his friend gave him some great condition 35mm BW negs
> (1956 & 1959). Except for major dust.
> I did not want to manually clean with chemicals, didn't want to risk any
> damage.
Cleaning the negatives properly will not damage them, and will in fact
help preserve them--environmental pollutants and ionized particles such
as cigarette smoke can actually attack the emulsion.
If you do not feel comfortable cleaning the negs yourself, look in your
phone book for a "custom photofinishing house" and ask them what they'd
recommend. Custom photofinishers are the places that cater specifically
to professional photographers, and they really understand the importance
of treating valuable photographic materials with respect.
No matter how you slice it, you'll get better results if you clean the
negs--no way around it.
--
Art, photography, shareware, polyamory, literature, kink:
all at http://www.xeromag.com/franklin.html
| |
| KatWoman 2005-10-20, 6:14 pm |
|
"Tacit" <tacitr@aol.com> wrote in message
news:tacitr-21D0BF.12414120102005@news-server2.tampabay.rr.com...
> In article <29z5f.37408$Lp.34935@bignews5.bellsouth.net>,
> "KatWoman" <JolieXPrincessXKatanaXXX@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Cleaning the negatives properly will not damage them, and will in fact
> help preserve them--environmental pollutants and ionized particles such
> as cigarette smoke can actually attack the emulsion.
>
> If you do not feel comfortable cleaning the negs yourself, look in your
> phone book for a "custom photofinishing house" and ask them what they'd
> recommend. Custom photofinishers are the places that cater specifically
> to professional photographers, and they really understand the importance
> of treating valuable photographic materials with respect.
>
> No matter how you slice it, you'll get better results if you clean the
> negs--no way around it.
>
> --
> Art, photography, shareware, polyamory, literature, kink:
> all at http://www.xeromag.com/franklin.html
Thanks everyone for your suggestions.
I will try cleaning the actual negatives (yes they are still in strips)
I did not want to send them to a commercial lab so as to take no risks on
losing them.
I know how to clean them and what to use, we used to have a BW real darkroom
here, just haven't used it in ages.
We used to use "nose grease" on scratches! not Vaseline
so no one has an in Photoshop solution?
wonder why they make it so you can't change the cursor color, it blends
perfectly with neutral gray, quite annoying,
makes the tool disappear on large areas of every BW image and the entire
background on studio shots.
| |
| Tom Nelson 2005-10-20, 6:14 pm |
| Kat, I haven't tried this but it's worth a shot:
1. Copy the background layer
2. Select the dust. That might be everything from 250 to 255
brightness, for instance. I'd do it by duplicating the gray channel and
increasing contrast.
3. Blur the layer enough to eliminate the dust.
4. Layer mask, show selection
Tom Nelson
Tom Nelson Photography
In article <29z5f.37408$Lp.34935@bignews5.bellsouth.net>, KatWoman
<JolieXPrincessXKatanaXXX@hotmail.com> wrote:
> My dad turned 80 and his friend gave him some great condition 35mm BW negs
> (1956 & 1959). Except for major dust.
> I did not want to manually clean with chemicals, didn't want to risk any
> damage.
> I have a Canonscan FS 4000.
> All my previous experience with it is from color slides, I got it with
> digital Ice, it's a prog that auto removes dust and scratches at the scan
> phase.(big improvement over my old Minolta)
> It does not work on BW negs! It says the operation failed and after further
> research I find it isn't designed to work on BW negs.
> So now I have a bunch of really dusted up and sometimes scratched scans. I
> manually spotted one image and it took like 2 hours for just dust.
> I tried Gaussian/ dust scratches and overlay, hue, color, none of that
> looked right.
>
> anyone have a good faster way I can fix them?
>
> the scanning is super slow already and I need to do 4 rolls of 24
>
>
| |
| tacit 2005-10-20, 10:14 pm |
| In article <dLQ5f.38986$Lp.20592@bignews5.bellsouth.net>,
"KatWoman" <JolieXPrincessXKatanaXXX@hotmail.com> wrote:
> wonder why they make it so you can't change the cursor color, it blends
> perfectly with neutral gray, quite annoying,
> makes the tool disappear on large areas of every BW image and the entire
> background on studio shots.
On the Mac, the cursor color does change when it goes over a neutral
gray image.
It does not change on the PC because of a technical limitation in
Microsoft Windows. Chris Cox has discussed this issue in
comp.graphics.apps.photoshop, I believe about a year ago.
--
Art, photography, shareware, polyamory, literature, kink:
all at http://www.xeromag.com/franklin.html
| |
| KatWoman 2005-10-21, 6:15 pm |
|
"tacit" <tacitr@aol.com> wrote in message
news:tacitr-6A5014.21173120102005@news-server2.tampabay.rr.com...
> In article <dLQ5f.38986$Lp.20592@bignews5.bellsouth.net>,
> "KatWoman" <JolieXPrincessXKatanaXXX@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> On the Mac, the cursor color does change when it goes over a neutral
> gray image.
>
> It does not change on the PC because of a technical limitation in
> Microsoft Windows. Chris Cox has discussed this issue in
> comp.graphics.apps.photoshop, I believe about a year ago.
>
> --
> Art, photography, shareware, polyamory, literature, kink:
> all at http://www.xeromag.com/franklin.html
ahh a disadvantage for PC users
it must be controlled by Windows system
| |
| KatWoman 2005-10-21, 6:15 pm |
|
"Lorem Ipsum" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:11ldtma53i4ie90@news.supernews.com...
>
> Gosh, if it's negs, use Pledge(tm) "grab it dry" cloths. No kidding. They
> are lint-free and truly suck up the dust. If they had been invented during
> the era of the darkroom, they would be a huge hit - and real spendy. But
> they are cheap now. The "dry" ones, not the ones with polish.
>
> I use 'em on negs in the darkroom. Outstanding.
>
bought the Grab Its at the grocery store yesterday while loading up for
possible hit by Wilma, damn hurricanes.
Will try and see if they help.
Also going to try Tom Nelson's idea in PS.
This is going to be a real labor of love, no money cause it's family
history.
There are some photos of my mom when she was young and still here on the
planet, my Dad as a young man and my sister and I being natural at home. The
photographer is a pro so they are quite interpreting and wonderful "slice of
life" pictures.
Worse comes to worse I'll just print them small with all the spots.
| |
|
| In article <dLQ5f.38986$Lp.20592@bignews5.bellsouth.net>,
JolieXPrincessXKatanaXXX@hotmail.com says...
>
>
>
[SNIP]
>so no one has an in Photoshop solution?
>wonder why they make it so you can't change the cursor color, it blends
>perfectly with neutral gray, quite annoying,
>makes the tool disappear on large areas of every BW image and the entire
>background on studio shots.
As Tacit correctly points out, the cursor color is set in MS Win, though I
still always add a req for this feature in every version of PS, just in case
something ever changes. There was a time that PC did not offer dual-monitor
support.
One thing you might want to think about, however, is hitting the Ctrl key, to
change the cursor to the "arrow." I do not recall who suggested this, during
one of the "cursor color/Win" discussions, but it does help to "find" it. Not
as good as having a neon blue, or international orange, or whatever
contrasting color works for that image, or image area, but about as good as it
seems it'll get for a bit, with PCs.
Hunt
| |
| Donald Leman 2005-10-21, 10:14 pm |
| I too have been looking at different techniques to get rid of dust and
scratches in scanned B&W negatives. Here is something that I've been
experimenting with recently.
1. Duplicate the background layer
2. Apply the Dust & Scratch filter to this layer as follows
3. In the filter adjust the level to get rid of the worst marks
4. Then increase the threshold to match the original grain. you may need to
play with this a bit
5. Apply the filter and change the blending mode of that layer to darken
This will usually result in too much softening of the original image. What I
have been playing with are the "blend if" options in the layer properties.
1. On the underlying layer section bring the left slider up until some of
the dust and scratch marks just begin to appear again then back off a bit.
2. On current layer play with both ends until you get the proper levels.
I usually take a snap shot at this point and compare it with the original to
judge the degree of softening. If there are still some areas that loose too
much sharpness you could add a layer mask and reduce the changes in that
area only.
As a side line Poloroid have a free program that works on dust and
scratches. You can find it by googling "dust scratches poloroid". It is no
longer supported and does soften a bit but worth checking out.
Don
"KatWoman" wrote in message
news:29z5f.37408$Lp.34935@bignews5.bellsouth.net...
> anyone have a good faster way I can fix them?
>
> the scanning is super slow already and I need to do 4 rolls of 24
>
>
| |
|
| KatWoman wrote:
> "tacit" <tacitr@aol.com> wrote in message
> news:tacitr-6A5014.21173120102005@news-server2.tampabay.rr.com...
>
>
>
> ahh a disadvantage for PC users
> it must be controlled by Windows system
>
>
I am at a loss as to why you are having that problem on your PC
Katwoman. There is no such disadvantage on my PC at all. The cursor is
black on a light image and light on a dark image. On neutral grey my
cursor becomes a light grey and is clearly visible on the neutral grey
background. The same applies for all of the tools including clone tool, etc.
Maybe there was some problem on lder versions of Windows, I have no
idea, but there is no such problem on Windows XP.
| |
|
| Hunt wrote:
> In article <dLQ5f.38986$Lp.20592@bignews5.bellsouth.net>,
> JolieXPrincessXKatanaXXX@hotmail.com says...
>
> [SNIP]
>
>
>
> As Tacit correctly points out, the cursor color is set in MS Win, though I
> still always add a req for this feature in every version of PS, just in case
> something ever changes. There was a time that PC did not offer dual-monitor
> support.
>
> One thing you might want to think about, however, is hitting the Ctrl key, to
> change the cursor to the "arrow." I do not recall who suggested this, during
> one of the "cursor color/Win" discussions, but it does help to "find" it. Not
> as good as having a neon blue, or international orange, or whatever
> contrasting color works for that image, or image area, but about as good as it
> seems it'll get for a bit, with PCs.
>
> Hunt
>
Hi there Hunt,
I just responded to Katwoman/Tacit on this issue and now I see you
comment on the same point. I am curious if there is some setting I have
ticked and you don't, because I have a cursor that changes in accordance
with the background on my Windows PC. The interesting thing is that it
works perfectly in Photoshop. In Corel Photopaint, however, the cursor
becomes lighter if the background is darker than mid-grey, and darker if
the background is lighter than mid-grey, and totally disappears if the
background is mid-grey (cursor becomes mid-grey!). So you are having the
problem in Photoshop that I have in Photopaint, but I have no such
problem in PS.
Strange.
Brian.
| |
| Rainer Latka 2005-10-27, 6:14 pm |
| KatWoman schrieb am Donnerstag, 20. Oktober 2005 19:50:
[...]
> I know how to clean them and what to use, we used to have a BW real
> darkroom here, just haven't used it in ages.
> We used to use "nose grease" on scratches! not Vaseline
might be interesting to find these negs in your archive and study the
longterm effects of nose grease on film ;-)
[...]
| |
| KatWoman 2005-10-27, 6:15 pm |
|
"Brian" <cooloox@optusnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:436095E5.7090709@optusnet.com.au...
> KatWoman wrote:
> I am at a loss as to why you are having that problem on your PC Katwoman.
> There is no such disadvantage on my PC at all. The cursor is black on a
> light image and light on a dark image. On neutral grey my cursor becomes a
> light grey and is clearly visible on the neutral grey background. The same
> applies for all of the tools including clone tool, etc.
>
> Maybe there was some problem on lder versions of Windows, I have no idea,
> but there is no such problem on Windows XP.
I have windows XP pro sp2, had it on old box and this box, same cursor
issue.
MY cursor does not change colors, maybe it is the settings
Do you have it set to Windows default? I do
Are you using brush size as the preference in PS?
| |
| Brian 2005-10-27, 10:14 pm |
| KatWoman wrote:
> "Brian" <cooloox@optusnet.com.au> wrote in message
> news:436095E5.7090709@optusnet.com.au...
>
>
>
> I have windows XP pro sp2, had it on old box and this box, same cursor
> issue.
> MY cursor does not change colors, maybe it is the settings
> Do you have it set to Windows default? I do
> Are you using brush size as the preference in PS?
>
>
Hi again Katwoman,
ok, I am using the default windows cursor. In PS my preferences are as
follows:
In Display & Cursors, I have "normal brush tip" under Painting Cursors
heading, and "Standard" under the Other Cursors heading.
I just ran the Spot Healing Brush over an image with a girl in a light
purple suit, with a white van and a pale blue wall in the background. As
the cursor passes over the suit, it turns white, over the white van it
turns black and over the wall it turns pink. At all times the cursor is
clearly visible. I filled a square with an RGB colour of 128,128,128 and
the cursor became white.
I can't seem to find any settings specifically related to cursors
dynamically changing colour, but it works fine on my computer. Sorry I
am not offering much help, all the best,
Brian.
|
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